Essential Yarn Parameters for Quality Knitwear

The Professional Language of Yarn: From Nm to Micron

In OEM knitwear, yarn parameters define quality, weight, handfeel, and market positioning. At AZ Knit, we translate Nm, ply, micron, twist, and blends into reliable, scalable production for global brands.

NM(Number Metric)

High Nm → finer, lighter garments
Low Nm → thicker, heavier sweaters

Real-World Examples

Luxury Cashmere Pullover → Nm 2/48, 14GG, ~220g
Merino Wool Business Sweater → Nm 2/30, 12GG, ~350g
Oversized Chunky Knit → Nm 1/8, 3GG, ~900g

Ply – Yarn Construction

- 1 ply → Smooth, light, elegant
- 2 ply → Balanced, clean, durable
- 4–6 ply → Lofty, warm, chunky

Buyer Value

Retail chains → 2 ply for scalable durability
Fashion brands → Mix 1 ply & 2 ply for style flexibility
Luxury buyers → Ultra-fine 1 ply for premium handfeel

Micron – Fiber Fineness

- - Cashmere → 14–16µm (ultra-soft luxury)
  - Extra Fine Merino → 17.5–19.5µm (soft, breathable)
  - Regular Merino / Wool → 20–23µm (balanced)
  - Alpaca / Mohair → 24–28µm (lofty, warm)

Buyer Value

Luxury buyers → Cashmere & extra-fine merino
Retail chains → Standard merino & lambswool for cost-efficiency
Fashion brands → Alpaca/mohair for textured seasonal collections

Twist & Tension

Twist = yarn turns per meter (TPM), affects strength & surface.
Tension = knitting machine settings, defines density & elasticity.

High twist → strong, crisp, less pilling
Low twist → soft, fluffy, but easier to fuzz

Buyer Value

Stronger twist = better durability for retail chains
Softer twist = premium handfeel for luxury markets
Controlled tension = consistent size & fit across bulk production

Yarn Types

Different yarn constructions create distinct performance and aesthetics:

Spun Yarn – Natural, warm, absorbent (wool, cotton, cashmere)
Filament Yarn – Strong, smooth, lightweight (nylon, polyester, silk)
Fancy Yarn – Visual impact, textured look (bouclé, chenille, eyelash, space-dyed)